The Honey Bee FP V2 is a reel good trainer to start your rc helicopter career. It is a fixed pitch machine which is very durable, easy to set-up and has plenty cheap spare part available, mostly found online. Maybe it is the most used trainer world wide. As a result of this there is a truckload of information available online about the Honey Bee FP. This makes it even more easier to discover the rc helicopter world.
When you gonna buy a helicopter it is smart to order spares along. For sure you are gonna crash it and get some damage. Two frustrating things can happen: You have to wait for spares and you will loose money on shipping costs. Its better to stock up parts. From experience I can tell you that it is better to have 4 flybars then 1 bended, it’s always better to have 10 Ring-like push-rod then 2 broken. The essence is when you have some stock you will fly more and save money on shipping & handling cost. In the “Hall of Shame” you can see my list of needed parts. Crashing is very personal and you’ll find out which parts you like to break most. Also get some extra LiPo batteries. This will help you progress a lot faster.
Main rotor Φ: 500mm | W: 304gr | L: 510mm | H:180mm| 370 motor
4 CH | 2 ESky servos | 11.1V 800mAh Li-po | XP Blades
I am new to RC helicopters and have had my HoneyBee FP V2 for about 2 weeks now. I can easily hover it, tail in, and am working toward side in hovering and forward flight. I want to get another battery for my helicopter. What do you recommend in terms of batteries? Should I get another battery from E-Sky that is the exact same? Are there better options? (either in terms of price or performance?). Thanks! And thanks for all of your videos!
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Personally I like the Esky LiPo’s as the are light and keep me long enough in the air. Others like heavier LiPo’s and I think that the extra weight of the more Amp LiPo’s doesn’t allow you to fly any longer. It kind of compensates it self. Longer flight times then 10 minutes will also ask more from the already hot motor. A good place to look for Esky LiPo’s is Ebay. I have mine for 4$ each. Some of the stock Esky HBFP V2 LiPo’s are offered as 900MAh. And when you look at the product number you see it is exactly the same as the 800 MAh.
A more heavy LiPo will also influence the way the Bee fly’s. Some like it and some don’t.
I hope I have helped you with my answer, if not let me know!
I have a honeybee v2. I am learning. and its a long process from what I have seen. I am crashing left and right. I am running out of indoor space to fly. The church gym ii fly at is now occupied most of the time. So, I want to know how much wind is OK for the HBFP v2 to fly in. I live in Texas- US. and it unpredictabe here. If you could help me with this information. I just dont want to unnecessarily crash it doing something stupid like fly in 15 mph wind.
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Not sure what your current level is. Maybe some tips can help to, to have a better indoor experience…
The Bee can handle a little wind but not much. XP blades handle wind much better then stock blades. So if you still learning to hover the church gym is maybe the best option even when you have to find some hrs when it is non occupied. If you can hover nicely you can can learn to hover outside, but only with a small amount of wind. 15 Mph is definite a no go. FF & FFF flying can be learned with small amounts of wind. The gusts are the worst as the Bee just flies up or down when the gust hits.
I learned it indoor in our living room in a virtual box of 9 x 9 foot. Just stay in the box or land quickly 😀
Not sure about your current level, did you visit Radds school of flight. A very slow and safe way to learn.
I can say i got the hover down… i have hovered so much in gym areas that it has gotten boring.. the gym is not a place for FF or FFF. I have superblades EZ. I am going to “mod” them into something between ez and xp. I might get a superblades xp soon. But, I can hover.. because of so many crashes in the gym with FF… i lost confidence… I bought me a mSR. so that i could fly indoors. I started on that… hovering on that is like nothing, its hands off… but its twitchy and flies fast and I can do circles and kind of 8’s on it. So, its been windy outside…. about 11-15mph wind right now in Arlington TX. it might keep like this… I donno… but I cannot fly my mSR indoor in my aptt anymore either cause with my maneuvers that bird has gotten quick and i run out of room very quick… so i miss flying outside. mSR definately cant take 11-15mph wind. it just flies up and on the roof of my aptt LOL…. (it recently happened and it got rained on 😦 lol)
but anywaz… sorry for the rant!! lol…i say in short i am intermediate. i think. I can fly mSR in wind outside… its good. i want to fly my HBFp v2. Just wondering if it’l be ok outside… please let me know.. fyi i just got super skids on my HBFP v2… they look sweet and hopefully will perform that way. 🙂
Hi Eric, i just order the HBFP v2, i like to buy some spare Lipo for the heli, i did some research and i know any 11.1V 800-1200 mAh is fine but Im not so sure about the cell. Should i buy 2S or 3S and what is the meaning of 20C or 30C or 40C and what C should i buy for the HBFP v2 ? Will the stock charger can be used to charger the new Lipo battery ?
Pls help me !!!!!!
Thx so much ^^
Thanks for leaving a messae on my Blog and congratulations with your Honey Bee V2. You should get 3 cell lipo’s between 800-1000MAh. The 1000MAh will make it easier to get a good center of gravety and will make the Bee a little heavier. I think the 800 will fly better as weight always makes things fly a little less. Also more heavy means more load on the main motor. Surf to http://www.hobbyking.com and look for Turnigy/Zippy 800/1000MAh 3 cell lipo’s. The are nicely priced and are great batteries. 20C will be more then enough. Higher C rates make the LiPo heavier and there is no need for higher C rate lipo’s on a Honey Bee. The stock charger is suitable for the new LiPo’s.
Keep in mind that flying a helicopter is very difficult and you will need time to master a simple thing as a tail in hover. The rewards will be big. Take it slow and practice as much as you can.
Thanks for all the info, you help me out alot ^^.
i found the Turnigy nano-tech 1000mah 3S 25~50C Lipo Pack from hobbyking. I read on some forum and they said it took less time to recharger like 10 or 20 mins and give more power for the Honey Bee v2 and also less weight. Would you recommend these battery ?
Nano Tech LiPo’s can be charged at higher c rates for sure. But you will need a good charger which can put out the required amps. The stock charger has a steady low current output.
My personal advise would be keep the Honey Bee as light as possible and go for a 800Mah Turnigy 20C. 20C is more them enough I think. A lighter heli will fly much nicer and floaty. Check the weight between an regular 20C turnigy and the 800 Nano tech. Gues the Nano Tech will be heavier. If you really want to go Nano go for the 800 🙂
The thing is the flighttime will be max between 8-10 minutes. This to let the motor cool down as it will make it last much longer. In a 800 is enough for 15 minutes hover so why go for 1000MAh? Why take extra weight up, your motor has to work harder and the blades will spinn faster to deliver more lift. Lower weight means less Kinetic energy on impacts/crashes. I would make a battery tray so you can put the lipo more in front for a good COG then adding a heavier lipo. The tray mod is less weight. And then again it is all personal. I have flow my Bee on 800 and 1000MAh and sure flew much better with the 800 🙂
I have one more question about the main blades and tail blades for Honey Bee v2, What are the size of the blades ? Do they have these at Hobbyking ? because it will save me a lot of money on shipping if i buy these together with the battery. They said the Superblade EZ or XP are good but i cant find any at Hobbyking.
Could you pls help me ?
SuperBlades are the way to go! Forget the rest indeed. You can get them at many online hobby shops and directly from the SuperBlades website. HK does not sell them. EZ are great for indoor hover a little wind is to much for them. XP’s are also very stable in hover, can handle some wind and are happy in forward flights. The EZ will bring the heli back to hover as the xp also likes to fly.
So no HobbyKing for the blades!
I have been browsing online more than 3 hours nowadays, yet I by no means found any attention-grabbing article like yours. It?s lovely worth enough for me. In my view, if all site owners and bloggers made good content as you probably did, the internet will be much more useful than ever before.
Im really green to rc copters. So green in fact that I think I have just made my mind up on which copter to go for. The majority of the sites I have visited suggest the Honey Bee as the best trainer and your blog was the final deciding factor.
Its good to read genuine questions and answers, albeit personal, without any kind of salesman talk.
Some of the terms used here dont make a lot of sense (for now I hope) but I think there may be a few questions coming your way when I take delivery of my new “Toy”
i am think of getting a Turnigy nano-tech 850mah 3S 25~40C Lipo Pack and i was woundering wound it fit in my honey bee fp v2 as latly it has not been able to take of the ground and i am also getting a turning a 6 balance charger for what would you get
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I am not sure if the Nano will fit. On the HK website are the dimensions of the LiPo. Just make of paper a small box with that dimensions and see how it fits.
I am sure a 20C battery will also do 🙂
A lot of people use Turnigy 1000MAh 20C LiPo’s, I like the lighter 800/850’s better 😀
Keep in mind that you maybe have to swap some connectors or make an adapter (or buy one), a XT60 won’t fit the Bee’s 4in1 lead.
or would the balance charger that is stock with the bee work because i think that is the problems on why my batterie lief didnt last long i have the lightest landing gear made out of 4 kebab sticks but it still wont lift off and i dnt know why!
The balancer which comes with the Bee does the job, it just takes a long time. Every now and then I still use the Esky charger.
A LiPo does not like to be flown until it drops in power. Actually that harms the batteries. I used a LiPo alarm to warn me when the voltage drops. After a while I got an internal clock.
Main reason for no lift is bad blade tracking, or a worn out main motor. Stock blades track bad and need to be retracked during flight (in my case). Thats why I upgraded to XP blades 🙂
i have only had it 2 weeks and the first day i had it out the tail motor burnt out and i had 8 or 9 flights out of it and the motor might be gone or the batterie and think this is a bad product ANY ONE READING THIS STAY AWAY FROM THIS HELICOPTER IT IS A SALE GO FOR THE ALIGN TREX 250 OR 450 FAR BETTER
Brendan thats just your opinion of coarse. Me and many other Bee owners are thinking different 😀
How about your blade tracking? Main thing for no lift.
Batteries normally do not die by them self, the need some abuse as draining them to much or crashing and hurting them.
Learning with a Trex or clone can be very costly and dangerous. And they are only flying well when they are setup very good (mechanically and by tx). Thats not something a newbee can do when he cannot hover and fly. Setting up a cp heli is a skill, you have to read very much about it and watch many video’s too. Gues you do not know how hard it is to fly a Trex 250 🙂
For most newbees setting up a simple FP helicopter is hard enough. If it is not set up well it does not fly well. If the setup is bad you will not get airborne.
Getting in this hobby means buying spare parts, no matter what heli you fly 😀
Thank you for stopping by 🙂
Congrats with your Bee. Sorry to hear the tail motor died the first day. Sometimes that happens, but sometimes. Maybe you were just very unlucky. Did you install a fuse mod? If not that should be the first thing to do. Best is add 2: One for the main and one for the tail!!!
I had a dead tail motor too once. It was a spare one and when I used it is did not work.
This motor are brushed and cheap and the low price is not paying for triple A quality control.
So order a few and take 2 main motors along. One day you will need to change them 🙂
Surf to http://myrcguide.com/ and register 🙂 A very friendly and helpful community with a lot of Bee owners.
the same thing happend to me it just the way they are they are a very good helicopter if you have at least 10 tail motors =) extremly stable and if it wont take of dont think the batterie is bad and was £40 like i did check if the blade are in track just put some tip ex on the end and spoll up the blades then look inbetween them works like a dream
would an ordinary laptop charging lead do the job and another thing my honey bee always wants to slide to the left i replaced the tail motor and still nothing even if i ajus tthe proportion it still slides
You need a good power source for a good charger. Some laptop adapters are good to use. Those meet the wishes of the balancer. I use a adapter myself. It puts out 5A and has a I can set the Voltage manually.
All single rotor helicopters have the tendensie to go left at start of. This effect should go away at 1 meter height. Do you mean drift to the left or having the heli yaw to the left?
When you work with proportional you have to unpower the heli every time, else nothing will change.
Proportional is only for the yaw. It makes the tail rotor spinn at a certain speed. So if it was something with proportional the heli would be turning around his axe. Meaning the nose would go to the left or right.
It is normal that a single rotor helicopter comes to the left at start up, she also tend to go back. Thats a result of the main rotor turning around. When you are a 3 feet high this should be gone.
If not you can increase the left pushrod from servo to copter head, or decrease the right one in lenght. I can be that your rotor head is not really horizontally and by adding a mm lenghth it can be fixed. This is just trial and error until the Bee behaves like it should be.
The pull to the left at startup is normal and should be counteracted with the sticks a little. When you get used to this the problem will be gone as you will not register it any more 🙂
I know it ain’t easy to learn to fly a single rotor helicopter. And even setting up is hard, especially when you are learning to hover. By the time you can hover you will be able to set it up too. Just hang on, not give up. It took me 60days for a tail in hover!!!!
If you have more questions you know where to find me 😀
I have to admit I was having second thoughts about buying this heli. I was tempted to jump straight in to collective pitch as opposed to fixed pitch. Thought it would be a money saver in the long run in case I got bored of the Honey Bee.
After following the blog I think I should learn to crawl before running!
– Take very small steps in your progress. When you master a little step then go to the next step.
– XP SuperBlades will make things easier.
– Radds school of rotary flight.
– Read a lot
– Practice a lot
– Do not give up!
– Fuse Mod!!
now that i am getting into forward flight my honey bee doesnt respond as quick as i want it to when i have the tail to me trying to bring it back i try leaviling it out and it just wont not until it gets closer
ok i will try it tomarow but i am considering getting a trex 450 sport v2 as i have the money saved up so i am considering it the honey bee is an amazing hover and does fly well great learning plat form any begginers reading this get the honey bee as your first heli its amazing
It doesn’t make the bee fly faster, it makes it less stable and it will also react faster.
I did not like it. If you wanna real responsive Bee you can try the Super Paddles.
I tried them but enjoyed the Bee better with stock paddles and weights.
If you still use the cross, take it of and the Bee will react.
Changing the paddles with the cross still on is the wrong path 🙂
eric i know this website is for mainly honey bee but i have found it the most realiable do you know anything about as i have a heli with a tarot tailgear box and was wondering are they a reliable company
Eric, me again! Above there are some comments about flybar weights and paddles. Why one or the other? What are the different effects? If the Honeybee had weights, rather than paddles, what would it change? More/less stable? My 9104 has just weights, and seems more stable hovering than the Honeybee FP V2? What’s the theory behind one or the other? Many thanks,
You were not wrong regarding the frustration part of this hobby!
Took delivery of my Bee a couple of weeks ago and have spent some time on the sim.
Was confident enough to look at blade tracking etc and have hit a problem:(
The Bee wont react to ANY input from the TX. I think the 4 in 1 may be the problem.
The story so far :
• I have charged the batteries
• Checked the balance within each cell which appears to be normal.
• Switched on the TX
• Connected the battery
The LED within the 4 in 1 flashes red twice then stays solid red. I have tried both batteries with the same outcome. Whilst the solid red LED is displayed I am unable to achieve anything with the machine.
I have not attempted to spin the motor up given the LED and apparent dead status of the controls.
I have also tried to “Re bind” the TX with the 4 in 1 but this has also been problematic. Following the instructions I turn off the TX off and power up the Bee then press and hold the unbind switch. This should make the solid red light flash and start the unbind process. I have held this switch down on several occasions well over 10 second with no change in the LED status.
SO frustrating – just want to step things up a notch
Lets start with a few questions 🙂
– Are you batteries in your TX fully charged?
– Do you have the throttle trim all the way down?
– Did you crash before this strange situation started?
– If you crashed … do you have done fuse mods?
Tip: Never trust a Chineese manual 🙂
What happens if:
You start up the Bee and then you push the bind button for a few seconds (forget about the leds and what the manual tells you) and follow the binding process?
I recently purchased some FrSky products and if I followed the manual I still would not be able to use it 🙂
Guys – thank you sooooooo much for your replies. It’s amazing that such a forum can try and help me so quickly!! 🙂 🙂 Such a shame that I am still awaiting an answer from the vendor!!! NOT HAPPY
TX batteries fully charged
Throttle trim all the way down (another question here I’m afraid 😦 Having read so much I now confused as to what the settings should be on the transmitter?! This is the 2.4ghz model Can you confirm the correct settings please? Currently set as up, down, down up)
Crash ?? Lol!! Havent even been able to move servos or spin the blades up.
Re binding – thanks for the link. I had already seen that one whilst trying to figure things out. This caused me more headache!
1. The LED on mine flashes red twice and they stays solid red
2. Irrespective of point 1 when I press the rebind button nothing seems to happen.
3. On closer inspection I cannot see the orange light. Appreciate that it is not as big or as bright as the red/green LED and is on the opposite side but I just cannot see it.
So what happens if you just follow the binding procedure without having the led blink as you like?
So don’t stop but finish the procedure?
On my TX I have the same settings so I gues thats good.
On http://www.myrcguide.com there is a really friendly and helpful forum. Go there and register and post the same question. Many people around with a HBFP. ATM I am a little puzzled with your problem and I am almost sure the with the help of some extra people we can solve this much easier. I am a member too on that forum and like it very much.
Not wanna scare you away from my website, but wanna see your problem solved as fast as possible. And the change that a member had the same experience is much bigger. I am just a single person and do not have all the knowledge about everything 🙂
I wished I had 😀
I am sure you will like it on http://www.myrcguide.com It is a forum hosted by Nuttcaze ( the guy from the many Bee vids on youtube.
Thanks once again for your sound advice – you are a real pleasure to know! Following your last comments, I have added weights to the flybar, and the result is certainly better! I am with stock blades still, but have ordered EZ Superblades, which should arrive next week.
Once they are mounted on the Xtreme head parts (yes, like everybody else, the original plastic parts didn’t last long!) I’m sure I will make fast progress! Will keep in touch!
I am new in the hobby and just bought a honney bee 2, sadly i had to change the 4 in 1 controller and i am having a lot of troubles with the settings, i was able to adjust the gain and the proportional settings, but now the heli is going left, i have try everything, trim the control, change the servos, what can i do,
Congratulations with your Honey Bee V2. And to bad you had to replace your 4in1 already. The first thing that pops into my mind is: Do you have a Fuse mod installed to give your 4in1 some protection? If not go for that mod. You can apply it to both motors.
When you say the heli goes left, do you mean it spins or the whole heli moves? It is normal for single rotor heli’s to go left (and backwards) on start up due to the way the blades spin. You have to counter act with the sticks. On about 1 meter height (3 foot) this effect will be gone. The heli has to be set up well and this not the most easy task, learning to hover and fly is even much harder. It took me 60 days before I could hover tail in for 1 LiPo.
So make sure all servo horns are as close to 90 degrees as possible, make sure the COG is set right. Make sure the paddles are flat and equal and make sure your blades track well.
A great tip: http://myrcguide.com
It is a very friendly forum which is open for newbees. The people there like to help others all the time. Tons of info about the Bee and many Bee owners.
Take a look overthere and register.
Good luck and if you have more questions feel free to ask.
The tail rotor should spin anti clock wise when you look at it. I think this will be the situation on your Bee. If not take of the tail motor plug from your 4in1 and plug it back on with the polarity swapped.
When your tail prop is turning the right direction it is time to change your proportional settings. Proportional makes your tail rotor spinn harder or softer. It has to spin harder to keep the tail in place. So start playing with proportional settings until your tail stays in place. Yes on start up it will move but when you apply a little more throttle the tail rotor will spin harder.
Just set your proportional so you can follow Radds with a steady tail. When you start to hover and you notice that it is time to play with proportional again you know what to do.
As you learn to master your Bee you will also master stuff like proportional and gain. It is part of the learning curve.
Note: You have to unplug the LiPo when adjusting the proportional. Else the new settings will not do a thing.
So my advice: Work on your proportional. When your tail starts wagging/hunting after you set the proportional just play with gain on your 4in1 until the wag is gone.
I always wrote down the original settings, that made it easier to return to the original situation and start all over again.
It is an easy job, just go for it!
Thank you for your advises re proportion – your help again was invaluable. I feel that I am making progress albeit slowly. Time is at a premium just now but not to worry.
I have been doing some research and ordered the spare parts that I think I will need in the future. One thing that caught my eye was figure 8 o rings. Have you seen these before? If so what is your opinion of them? Is this something to consider buying in the future?
O-Ring Mod: Some people do like it very much.
I never tried it as I almost never broke the little connectors.
So I kept that part stock.
If you have the tendency to break those little connectors that mod can be of money saving help.
The only mods I liked are mentioned on my website, the stuff I tried and which I did not like are not mentioned 🙂
Thanks for your honest answer. Time will tell if I need to consider that mod.
1st mod will be the 4 in 1 fuse.
Another question if you would be so kind.
I am just about ready to go for my first hover. Essentially I am at the “Scooting” stage but on a number of occasions I need to apply full right rudder to keep the Bee straight. Is this because of rotor wash? If/when I get the Bee off the ground is this likely to reduce or should I be messing around with the gain before attempting my first hover/hop(!)
Before you go up and try to hover apply the fuse mod. Better safe then sorry 🙂
Reading about the full rudder right makes me think you can increase the proportional a little more.
Gain is for the gyro, not for the speed of the tail rotor. When you go for the first hovers you will see what the tail does. Maybe it shakes like a happy puppy;s tail. Then the gain is to high. Maybe the gyro reacts to slow and your gain is to low.
It can also be the when you leave the ground you will see that the proportional needs to be set again and the gyro needs some attention too.
Yes you”ll become a true Bee master this way. Keep the small steps so you create a good and solid base which will be of help during the rest of your heli career.
If you have more questions, feel free to ask!
I am due you an apology. If I had read your first reply to me about proportion I wouldn’t have had to ask you, effectively, the same question twice. Perhaps a reminder to me to do a bit more research before asking.
How you doing? Not heard from you in ages – hope everything is still cool….
Starting to get there with the HB2. Some of the rookie tasks are now easy – soldering etc etc!!
As usual with my time in this hobby just as I start to get somewhere a new problem appears. You said the only silly question is not to ask so here goes!
Using the stock ESky charger no longer charges my batteries 😦 Whilst it appears to charge (the green flashing light) even after 2.5 hours plus the batteries have not fully charged. In fact the voltages have not increased. I originally thought it could be a faulty battery but I now have the problem with all my batteries which makes me think the problem is the charger.
I dont want to wait hours for a charge so thought about buying a charger which is up a step from the one supplied. I am not ready to buy a top of the range chager as I am still new to the hobby, I know next to nothing about batteries and money is tight just now.
Looking on the net and forums there appear to be a lot of chargers out there!! After doing some homework this looks like a possible purchase
Turnigy Accucel 6 lipo charger LiPo/LiFe NiMH Nicad UK
Could you be so kind and offer me an opinion?
Ideally I would like a decent basic charger that I can just plug in and wont take hours to charge my batteries.
I currently have 1300mAh 11.1v Li-Po 25c batteries. 2 were supplied when I bought the Bee. I bought another recently to help me stay airbourne longer. All currently need charging so I am grounded – again 😦
Hi Eric. I got it about 1 year ago but it has never flown. I got a new 2.4 ghz receiver for it because the one that came in it did not change the speed of the tale blade so I got a new one it is working but still will not flay. No I change the proportion when it was moving so that I could see if it made a difference.