Easy Star II Build Log

I am also running a more extended build log on My RC Guide Forums. When you click the link you will be directed to the EZ*II build.
Here a small slideshow of the building process
1, The first Steps
The KIT came without glue, Multiplex even sells special glue for Elapor. Why they did not add 1 or 2 bottles I do not know. That would make the KIT a really really good KIT. So I had to go out today to get me some CA glue. I came home with 6 tubes CA and 6 small hobby Spring Clamp Tools. Which will of great help when assembling the FPV Pod.
I am quite new to the world of CA glue and can tell you all that I glued my fingers together . Spoiled glue on my finger tips and just used to much for sure. I am sure I will use CA a lot more, gues I need some activator for ultra fast field glue-ing too. So today I did some glue on my fingers and on the foam. I only did the steps on the page on the right. It was straight forward.
2. The next step
According to the plans the next step is adding the connectors in the fuse for the aileron servo’s. As ailerons are optional with the EZ*II, Multiplex did not include a Y-cable or two servo extension cables. So I ordered a few 30cm Y-leads at HobbyKing, I included some HXT900 servo’s too. Now lets wait for HobbyKing. The coming days the FPV Pod will be delivered so I think the next update will be building the pod.
3. The FPV Pod
The pod will replace the canopy and will carry my video cam and some other stuff. The pod is made of white plastic. On the first picture the parts and on the 2nd picture the parts put together with the new tools. Before I add any glue I will sand some of the edges.


I finished the pod and added the pod/canopy connectors/clamps to the fuselage. The pod fits nicely, however not seemless.
4. The Keda BL motor
Today the motor arrived. It is a very complete package with all nessecary stuff and more in the package. The UK supplier did a good and fast job with shipping. The motor fits in the motor mount. I had to reverse the shaft which was so damn easy to do that I was surpised. Never had to reverse a shaft and now I feel like a pro in doing so. Now I need to hook ik up to a measuring device to see how much current it draws so I can get a fitting ESC. Also I like to see the Wattage it produces so I can see a little if it is usable in this plane.
5. Adding aileron connectors
After the Y-cables arrived I was able to install the aileron connectors in the fuselage.
6. Making the wings RTF
Making the wings RTF was quite easy too. First I tested the HXT900 servo’s and did the control horn at 90 degrees with the subtrim function on the transmitter. The most complicated part was lengthen the servo wire by soldering some extra wire. I just cut of the connector and added a spare on with the right amount of wire. First I twisted the servo wires. This is too keep the possible interference down aka keeping the plane as free as possible from RF (radio frequencies). I measured the right length for the twisted wire and added the extra part. Also I did not forget to add some threat locker to the hub screws which keep the servo push rod in place! I used medium CA to glue the servo’s in the wing. After all was done (horns at 90, fixed servo push rods I did cut the ailerons free. Glues used: Medium CA, Activator and threat locker.
7. Reinforcing the tail
I used the following stuff: Needle nose pliers, hobby knife, fine liner, 5mm wooden square rod, Digital Vernier Calipers, thick CA and some activator and a 6mm GlassFiber tube.

I used the 5mm rod to mark the places to cut out.

With a knife and pliers I removed the unwanted foam.

I used thick CA on the foam and softly pressed the rod in the glue, then sprayed a little activator.
8. Servo & push rod installation
Initially I planned the elevator & rudder servo somewhere near the tail. Advantages are: Better for COG to compensate for the FPV pod, servo’s & camera. Less trimming as foam expands different then metal in summer and winter, no change for slop. I skipped this plan as it should turn out quite ugly and I love to keep this plane nice and clean. I used some hot glue to attach the HXT900’s(first tested and set to 90 degrees).
I taped the 2 halves together in order to install the push rods and sleeves. This time I used medium CA glue and sprayed some activator afterwards.
9. Positioning the Vtx
I placed the Vtx near the tail for compensation and to help achieve an easier to set COG. When I deceided where the Vtx should come, I took some depron and started doing some trial cuts. In the end I did cut, with a new blade, a rectangular (39*27*6mm) in the Elapor. Now the Vtx sits nicely in the foam with the bottom half in the foam. I made a small hole for the Vtx wires and and placed a plastic prop washer on top the hole, sunk in the foam, to make it look more professional.

The uneven belly of the Vtx disappears in the fuselage and leaves the rest in the cooling wind.
10. Video Transmitter Wires
The obvious next step is installing the wires that lead to the video transmitter. I soldered 3 wires (V=red, Ground=black & Video Signal=white/Yellow) to the Vtx plug and used some heatshrink to isolate them. Then I cut some slots in the fuselage for the wires to run through. I used a hobby knife and some needle noise pliers. I added a little drop of hot glue in the slots to fixate the wires a little which is handy when I gonna join the 2 fuselage halves.
11. Wires, wires and soldering
Some servo wires could be longer and others could be shorter. So time to make them the desired length. I soldered a lot and did not forget to use heat shrink. I twisted all finished wires to decrease possible RF noise which can interfear with rc control or video quality. Boy there are a lot of wires when using six servo’s. The video wires not counted. When finished I am sure it looks like spaghetti.
I also had to lengthen the ESC power wires. I used bullet connectors (3.5mm) and placed a heatshrink over them. As the heat shrink is one piece the bullet will not come loose during flights and it is still easy to change the ESC.
12. Fishing gear
I added about 30 grams of lead fishing bullets (or how it is called) to the tail. About 15 grams each side of the fuselage. Used hot glue to fixate them.
13. Test run
After all wires were soldered and triple checked on right polarity and connections it was time to connect all components. Stuffing the wires in the fuselage and taping it together. Time for a test to look if all is oke, no interferences do occur and if the GPS unit finds enough satelites. Test Passed!
Whats left is to organize the wires a little more, adding two dipole antennas, and add some velcro to the rx and fuselage and some small stuff.
14. Closing the body
Before the glue was added I did a few other things first. Used a drop of hot glue to fixate the speed controler. Used a drop medium CA and activator to fixate the GPS receiver in the nose. Used Velcro to keep the rc-rx, with all plugs connected, in place. Managed a lot of wires so I could close the fuselage without hassle.
The manual talks about medium CA with activator. A combination which dries very fast. I was a little afraid to fast and leaving 0% room for errors.I asked a few FPV friends about what glue to use. I was convinced by a reply about CA. I was told to put the CA in the refrigerator. Cool CA dries slower. In the meantime I did practice on how to apply the glue and on which places. This way my body & mind got used to what I was expected to to. I also practiced a lot with closing the fuselage.
I timed the drying process and still had good binding at 3 minutes. So the goal was to apply enough glue (not to much, not to less) on the right places and close the fuselage within 3 minutes. I had a few very stressful minutes before starting. Never used CA on such an important moment before.

Just before adding medium CA.
Long story short: I glued the fuselage with medium CA and was successful. After a drying period I added the motor mount with thick CA. I just followed the manual for this step.
15. Adding the motor and prop
Adding the motor was straight forward and like the manual showed. I added a little medium threatlocker on the screws (and whipped of most) before I added the motor to the mount. Installing the prop was very easy to. I used some thin cardboard as spacers to create just enough room between the mount and prop.
I just followed the manual for the next steps to finish the motor pod. After I place the top on I was curious how the ESC was doing. A big cooling opening for the ESC & Motor. I think the ESC keeps cool as it is a little oversized and I use a seperate UBEC.
16.  Adding the Video transmitter
First I made sure that the frequency was set to the channel of my likings and used hot glue for to glue the Vtx down. Then I plugged in the wires. Glued the black prop spacer in the foam with some medium Ca.
The finished Multiplex Easy Star II build for FPV
Multiplex Easy Star II FPV 004
17. Finishing Touch
– Adding phone numbers to the plane.
– Adding some cable binders/tyrips
– Determine where the LiPo has to come
– Checking if no servo’s are reversed
– Range test
– Checking or setting the failsafe function.
18.  The Mod I forgot: Wing Magnets
After having made over 10 flights I realized that I completely forgot the Magnet Mod to keep the wings better together.
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5 Responses to “Easy Star II Build Log”

  1. Villalji Says:

    Great blog! You inspired me to try many mods to my EZ*!!

    • Eric Says:

      Thanks!

  2. Brian Says:

    Thanks for this info, a great help. The plastic FPV pod looks like it’s designed just for the ES2 – where did you get it? Brian

  3. Brian Says:

    Thanks Eric, I’ve placed an order with them!

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